A Puerto Vallarta Travel Guide
By: Belinda Labatte
Puerto Vallarta holds a special place in my heart. It has been our family’s winter escape for over 30 years, and in that time we have witnessed changes in the growth and development of that city — but we also have changed ourselves. It has been an ongoing exploration for us and the way we experience the town has evolved too. I first visited Puerto Vallarta as a university student and would teach English on some days, volunteer on other days and take tennis lessons when I was bored. And now one of the things I love best about PV, is to meet my own daughters there, who are university students themselves and continue to discover the town one step at a time.
Before giving away the places, people and experiences that make Puerto Vallarta unique and memorable, a bit of background: Puerto Vallarta is located in the centre of Banderas Bay. Pre-1500s the area was inhabited by indigenous peoples of the Aztatlan culture and then in 1541 Spanish explorers, led by Don Pedro de Alvarado, were the first Europeans to colonize the area, naming the bay Bahía de Banderas. It has an old town that is best explored on foot with flat shoes, as the cobblestone roads are designed for meandering long walks; explore along the 7-mile beachfront Malecón promenade to get your bearings as a tourist and then move uphill, where you can explore the roads that lead you in every direction towards another beautiful bay view. Puerto Vallarta is celebrated not just for its beaches but also for its inclusive cultural programming, film festivals, drag cabarets, and queer art spaces.
This travel guide is a result of recent explorations that have become traditions. We hope it will give you ideas on how to explore this city whether by yourself or with friends and family one step at a time and one day at a time. I like to frequent my favorite places and add one or two new things to surprise myself, so this is Part 1. Part 2 will feature the Puerto Vallarta arts and culture scene, and more places to eat and drink and watch the world go by.
Day 1
I always start my visit in Puerto Vallarta with a visit to the Spa by Playa Los Arcos. https://en.spaplayalosarcos.com on the Malecón, with a straightforward ‘relaxing massage’. Adding a pedicure, manicure or facial is always a good idea if you want to start your trip that way. The ladies are kind and the atmosphere is quiet and lovely, very clean and excellent massages every time.
From there, I order a glass of rosé or a cocktail at Daiquiri Dick’s https://www.daiquiridicks.com and order the first long lunch of the trip always with multiple dishes including dessert.
If it is a Saturday, head around the corner and explore the Saturday Farmers market in the main square… and pick up a market bag hand designed from the disabled children’s artist organization in town.
The local market at the Mercado Municipal Emiliano Zapata is open every day and should not be missed for the fresh tortillas; https://goo.gl/maps/DZgsKzUuK5G2 … close by is Fonda El Cucon for the finest stuffed poblano peppers I have had in town.
Other outstanding places to eat are everywhere, among our favorites are The Hacienda for a sunset fine dining experience just above the church. Start the evening off with drinks at La Capella. Do not forego the restaurant at Elizabeth Taylor’s home, The Iguana where you can spend an evening lounging like a star.
For elegant cocktails and bar experience either pre dinner or post, and for some dancing under the stars, skip the nightclubs on the Malecón and head to El Colibrí.
Other fun places to dine: Il Pesce Cucina di Mare, Lindo Mar in Conchas Chinas, and Mama Sirena Oyster Bar.
Day 2
Great walking trails are everywhere; once you have explored the Malecón end to end, try going up to the observatory tower high in the hills of the town.
It makes for a great Sunday morning workout… Sign up to Workout Vallarta for a group workout with Marlon via the Instagram handle, from sea level to the top Marlon the trainers will guide you step by step!
Conchas Chinas: This spectacular residential area must be explored. For a real morning expedition send your Uber to the Hotelito Patio Azul, enjoy a coffee with a view…and then walk the area until you come to the Lindo Mar beach for either another meal or a swim.
Tomatlán → Las Ánimas Hike (AllTrails): This is a full-day excursion, ~5‑mile hike that winds around the cliffs with stunning views, you must bring water and wear good shoes as this hike is intermediate to advanced, with many tight corners and ascents/ descents. The lunch on the beach at Las Animas makes it all worth it and naturally, the way back is easy, hop into a lancha. So bring pesos. The hike starts off easy through town and small bridges and walkway that you navigate by simply keeping your eye on the water.
Day 3
For something different and out of town, visit the Vallarta Botanical Gardens https://www.vbgardens.org and do not forget your swimsuit so you can swim in the coves down below in cold crisp natural spring water.
For artful inspirations take a walk into town and all the way over to the public art gallery Arte Vallarta Museo https://artevallartamuseo.mx/. This venue has both permanent and temporary exhibitions and is open to the public by donation. I saw some great pieces from queer artist Félix D’Eon and others and discovered new little restaurants and cafes on my walk.
As for coffee, try all the coffee shops, keep exploring and never stop trying new things.